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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.